The idea of the perfect engagement ring has changed. Rather than following a single tradition, today’s couples are choosing designs that reflect their relationship, values and personal history.
More and more couples arrive with a story rather than a reference image. Instead of asking what is fashionable, they ask how a ring can reflect their relationship, family history or shared experiences. As a jeweller, this feels like one of the most meaningful changes taking place in contemporary jewellery.
One of the clearest shifts is the growing interest in coloured gemstones. Sapphires continue to be a classic choice, but tourmalines, spinels, demantoids and other unusual gemstones are increasingly replacing the traditional white diamond. Clients are often drawn not only to colour, but also to the individuality of natural gemstones, where no two stones are ever exactly alike.
Diamond cuts are changing as well. Although the round brilliant remains the most recognised shape, elongated cuts have become increasingly popular, particularly oval diamonds, which offer excellent brilliance while feeling softer and often appearing larger than their carat weight suggests. Their elongated silhouette is also practical for everyday wear, making them one of the most versatile choices for modern engagement rings.
Alongside modern cuts, we have also noticed a renewed appreciation for antique diamond cuts. One commission remains especially memorable. A client asked us to source an old-cut diamond that had originally belonged to a piece of jewellery from the Russian Empire, as her fiancé’s family came from Russia and she wanted the stone itself to become part of that story. It took considerable time to find the right diamond, but the finished ring carried a sense of continuity that could never have been achieved with a newly cut stone.
The growing popularity of east-west settings reflects a similar desire to reinterpret familiar designs rather than replace them entirely. By rotating an oval, emerald or marquise-cut gemstone horizontally, the ring immediately acquires a more contemporary character while remaining elegant and highly wearable.
Few designs illustrate this personal approach better than the Toi et Moi ring. Originally popularised centuries ago and continuously reinterpreted ever since, it allows two gemstones to exist side by side without competing with one another. Some couples choose birthstones, others combine favourite colours, while many simply select two gemstones that represent two distinct personalities coming together in a single piece of jewellery. The symbolism feels natural rather than prescribed, which perhaps explains why the design continues to resonate today.
Meaningful details often remain invisible to everyone except the couple themselves. Hidden gemstones set inside the band have become one of our favourite ways to personalise wedding and engagement rings. At Dune, we frequently set a tiny demantoid from the Ural Mountains inside bespoke wedding bands—a discreet detail known only to the people wearing the rings, carrying a personal connection that becomes part of the jewellery’s story.
Texture has become another important form of expression. Rather than highly polished surfaces, many clients are choosing hand-carved finishes that preserve the subtle irregularities created during the making process. These textures catch the light differently, age beautifully over time and ensure that every ring remains genuinely unique.
The materials themselves have also become part of the conversation. Increasingly, couples ask us to reuse family gold or reset inherited gemstones into a completely new design. Beyond sustainability, these commissions carry emotional significance, allowing a grandmother’s wedding ring or a family diamond to continue its journey in a form that feels contemporary while preserving its history.
Perhaps this is the most significant shift we have witnessed. Modern engagement rings are becoming less about following established conventions and more about creating something that could belong to no one else. Whether that means choosing an unusual gemstone, an antique-cut diamond, recycled gold or a hidden detail that only two people will ever know about, the ring becomes a reflection of a relationship rather than a trend.
Trends will inevitably evolve. Personal stories rarely do. The engagement rings that remain meaningful for generations are often those that capture something deeply individual, long after the fashions of their time have passed.
