The setting is often described as a way of holding a gemstone in place. In reality, it does much more than that.
It determines how light enters the stone, how the proportions are perceived and how the entire ring is experienced from every angle. When I begin designing a piece of jewellery, I rarely start with the setting itself. I start with the gemstone.
Every stone has its own proportions, depth, width and optical behaviour. These characteristics usually suggest the most appropriate type of setting long before I begin drawing. Rather than following a predetermined design, I prefer to let the gemstone dictate the construction around it.
My approach is guided by two principles: architecture and light. The objective is not simply to secure the stone, but to reveal its full visual potential while creating a balanced composition. At Dune, we also pay particular attention to how a ring looks from the side. A ring is viewed from many angles throughout everyday wear, and its structure should remain considered and harmonious from every perspective.
Prong Setting
The prong setting remains one of the most effective ways to maximise the amount of light entering a gemstone. By supporting the stone with a minimal amount of metal, the setting allows its brilliance and colour to become the primary visual focus. It also makes it possible to position the gemstone slightly higher, creating additional openness around the pavilion.
Although prong settings are traditionally associated with very fine structural elements, we adapt them to the visual language of Dune by introducing softer transitions, gentle curves and sculptural lines that integrate naturally with the rest of the ring rather than appearing as separate mechanical components.
Bezel Setting
The bezel setting appears far more frequently in our work.
A carefully proportioned bezel can visually increase the presence of a smaller gemstone while creating a stronger relationship between the stone and the metal surrounding it. Instead of appearing as an independent element placed onto a ring, the gemstone becomes part of a continuous architectural composition in which the band and the setting are designed as a single form.
Beyond its visual qualities, a bezel provides excellent protection for the edges of the gemstone, making it particularly suitable for rings intended to be worn every day.
Half Bezel Setting
The half bezel is perhaps my favourite type of setting because it combines many of the advantages of both approaches.
The gemstone remains open enough to admit generous amounts of light while being securely supported by metal where it matters most. This balance creates opportunities that are difficult to achieve with either a full bezel or a traditional prong setting.
From a design perspective, the half bezel offers exceptional freedom. Its supporting elements can be shaped into flowing curves, asymmetrical forms or architectural structures that become an integral part of the ring rather than simply serving as a technical solution.
Designing for the Stone
There is no universally superior setting. The most appropriate choice always depends on the gemstone itself.
Its hardness, cleavage, proportions, optical properties and intended use all influence the final construction. A successful setting should never compete with the gemstone, nor should it simply hold it in place. Its purpose is to support the stone structurally while allowing its character to remain the defining feature of the finished piece.
Every design begins with the same question: what does this particular gemstone need in order to look its best? The answer almost always determines the setting.
